Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Money Pit

Might as well put this out there now, LandCruisers are a money pit ... !
I have read this before, but its not till you actually start to fix/repair or restore a LandCruiser that you realise just how much money can be spent.
The reality is once you start, you are pretty much paying the cost of a new truck/car.

I'm trying to keep this site as an actual record of the project and for that I need to list the costs. So here's some parts and costs for same.  These are just the pretty bits :)
This is a list of parts ordered to date. This does not include the next major order which will include the tub and body panels ..... makes me cry :)



order4

TADOR, HEAVY DUTY ALUMINUM ½ DOORS
TARQP, FULL ¼ PANELS, DIAMOND
TCAGE, FRONT CAGE
KBIKI, BIKINI TOP
TRAIL, BIKINI RAIL
S1917, SUPERWINCH
51464, HOOD CUSHIONS, 4EA.
53881, HOOD BUMPERS, 2EA
AS401, SNORKEL, BJ
45451-1, TIE ROD, SHORT                                         

Total   €2'922.00 
order 3

TURBO KIT                                                                    

tOTAL    €900.00

order 2
                                   
STEEL WHEELS AND TYRES  
                                   
TOTAL  €'1'100.00

Order 1
suspension lift kit with 'u' bolts
TUFFTY CENTRE CONSOLE
2 number door window seals
2 number glass retainers
2 number window winders
2 number door internal pull handles 

Total    €1'650.00



Thursday, 8 March 2012

Decision made ..

Well I have decided to strip the BJ down to the chassis, This is exactly what I never planed on doing, but the truth be known I bought a truck that had all the rush and rot hidden under paint. So I could drive it as it is, but I would only be putting off the work that would eventually have to be done.
Having made the decision to get the body work done, I cant weld or any of that stuff, so it had to go to a body shop. I went about checking and pricing replacement panels, patch panels, 1/2 and 3/4 tubs. The real problem was while there was 60% of the body work in reasonable state (repairable), the labour for the remaining cutting, patching and welding was looking crazy. The more I though about it, the more a 3/4 tub seemed the way to go. Nice idea, but not to many 3/4 tubs in Ireland, I checked some of the tubs that were being imported and was not to impressed with the quality of the steel.
So out of curiosity I checked the aluminium tubs, ok they seem expensive at first but when I compared the cost of the patch repair panels, floor front, bed liner, wheel arches, rocker panels etc, there was only about seven hundered euro in the different. The labour and time saving, if I could get the aluminium tub, seemed to outweight the additional cost.
So that where it is now, I'm a day or two away from ordering the aluminium tub :). And as usual when anyone ordered stuff for their Landcruiser, they can never avoid slipping in a few other bits .....

The Aqualu Aluminium tub :)

Tuesday, 28 February 2012

Bad News

Well I have been talking to the Alex at the body repair shop (Classic Car Centre)and the news is not good. Looks like the last paint job did a good job of covering up all the fillers, goo, patches and whatever else was holding the metal together.
What initially seemed like a simple floor pan replacement has now turned into;
Floor pans
Doors cills, front and back
Rear bed
Read wheel arches 
One front wheel arch


So there you have it ... its a mess, I just did a quick price on the replacement panels and patches $2500.00 ... :(


So here the problem, if i spend a heap on money on the truck I will never get it back. If I dont spend the money  I will always know the truck is not right !!!!!!


I'll updated when I've decided what to do 

Thursday, 2 February 2012

Big Decision

Ok, so the bits of rust are starting to get the better of me ....

As I mentioned before I don't intend (well not in the short term anyway to have a full nuts & bolts restoration on the the BJ), but the rust on the underside gets me down. I went as far as trying to get a welding course, me being over optimistic and thinking I could do the metal work myself, but I have come to the conclusion that the expense and time in me doing the metal work would eventually prove fruitless.
So I have decided to get a restoration guy to have a look at the underside of the truck and see how bad or good it actually is.
I rang the guy last night, and when I mentioned I was hoping to get some metal work done to a Landcruiser he replied "you and half the country" :)
Seems the BJ's are vintage machine of choice these days.
Besides by lack of welding skills, the other reason for going the route of a professional is that the roll cage should be arriving in a few weeks and given that it is only bolted to the floor, I figured the floor at least should be right !.
Will be interesting to get his views on the truck and its overall condition ......

Monday, 30 January 2012

works in progress

turbo kit waiting to be installed. still at planning stage.

job list.

new exhaust. new radiator. new air intake route. oil line to sump.

still debating weather to install turbo.


items ordered

full roll bar front and rear. half doors. winch. bikini top.


Work Done

Here's a list of bits I've done so far ...

Posting this for those like myself who have little or no mechanical knowledge. Hope to point out a few of the pit falls and stuff I've learned while doing the work.
First thing to remember is that I want a truck to have fun with and drive, it was never intended to be a full restoration ....
Anyone who is interested in BJ's will have read or been told they are just like a meccano set ... well just remember its a big meccano set and most stuff hasn't come off the meccano set in years.
A few tools that I have gathered while doing bits and pieces.
A good socket set, breaker bar, a wide range or wrenches, decent trolley jack, axles stands, pliers, vice grips, screws drivers, lump hammer, ball joint socket remover. The list is growing. A good lamp is very handy, you will find that a lot of time is spent under the truck and a lot of time working in the dark.

I have learnt to always expect a simple job to take twice as long as expected. Mainly to lack of mechanical knowledge and with most jobs, there is a correct sequence, its the sequence that has good me in trouble ever time leading to hours wasted..... But I keep telling myself its all part of the fun :)

So my first job was the suspension, and like most people I went for a 4" lift thinking it would be cool !. Again I should have done a lot more research before ordering parts. Why because lifting the truck requires more than just shocks and springs. So for those who are interested here what I ordered, how it worked out and what I didn't know

4" lift suspension kit ordered from TPI (my best contact for parts and advise yet http://www.tpi4x4.com/ ). The kit came complete with springs, shackles, bushings, shocks and all the bits required to swap out the suspension. Changing the suspension wasn't that hard really,I started with the rear. I got the sequence wrong, which slowed it down, and what I mean by that is I thought I could do one corner at a time, the problem I had was the new suspension (leaf spring alignment nut) would not align with the underside of the axle. It took me a while to figure out the problem, but the cure was straight froward. The cure was to sit the truck on stands and drop the complete rear axle, this allowed the axle to be pulled to align with the spring seating points.
The front was a lot easier, so not much to say there.

So the bits I didn't realize needed to be done as a result of the 4" lift. The rear brake line needed to be extended, no big deal extension lines can be got, just it would be very handy to have known because it meant the truck was sitting around for a few weeks waiting for the part. The axle vent lines need to be extended to reach the underside of the body. The u-joints should be replaced, I had a vibration in the rear shaft when i eventually took the BJ out for a test after the suspension swap. Apparently this is a common problem, and apparently an easy fix. so the next job was to replace the u-joints.

Again dont think that something like replacing the u-joints is an hour job. Removing the rear shaft is easy, removing the spider joints holding the u-joints/flanges is not so easy. Rather than give a line by line account heres a link that is by far the best and easiest 'how to' for replacing the u-joints

http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles2/tech/ujoint_install

A couple of photos of the u-joint, the separated parts.


The resembled rear shaft.



Steering tie rod ends. Not a big job, but a lot easier with a ball joint socket remover.

Replaced alloy wheels with steel wheels.

Mirrors.

Window seals.

Seats recovered.

General service.

24 to 12v reducer.

New tufty centre console with head set. Didn't fit straight out of the box, needed a bit of drilling. but works ok.